Author Topic: No Blackbox for dummies?  (Read 4577 times)

Offline MisserBill

  • Member
  • **
  • Posts: 2
    • 2015 RAM 3500
on: June 01, 2019, 09:58:30 PM
Been cruising around looking for a short readme, since the standalone did not come with any kind of instructions. Just looking to replace a stuck actuator, I know how to set the sector shaft gear (using a 5mm pin to align the hole in the sector gear with the hole in the turbo base, or alternatively align that fourth tooth with the edge of the large hole). I've got the connectors from Mouser and pretty sure I can wire it up to supply 10A of current to the actuator, as well as power to the standalone.

When I power up the standalone and the actuator, does the standalone automatically issue the calibrate command? Or do I need to connect it to the PC using the USB cable and issue that 'calibrate' command. That's number one.

Number two is, once I've got the actuator 'pre-calibrated', I've got the sector gear set, and I bolt the actuator back on the turbo, do I run the calibration command again?

Assuming yes, can I then disconnect the standalone, connect up the vehicle harness, and start the engine without destroying the new actuator or turbo?

If y'all can point me at a readme, that would be great. If there is not one, and I figure out how to do it with your help, then I'll post it back.

thanks guys



Offline hakcenter

  • developer
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 762
    • 1998 12v Ram
Reply #1 on: June 04, 2019, 08:55:54 AM
There's not much of a readme since this is a diy solution.

There's a wiki, wiki.lilbb.com

For calibrating I would just bolt the unit on and issue the calibrate command. You can do it from a laptop connected via USB through the ide interface / serial connection or through a Bluetooth paired device running the lbb software.

The command will stay issued until you send it again as well since not all actuators are made the same or have the same Gremlins.

What kind of actuator do you have ? 351 or 300vg ? The 300vgs won't accept commands unless the gear is within a specific range which makes it a total pain. With those you'll need to have the actuator off, keep moving the gear and reapplying power on and off until you finally see the gear set itself to a zero.

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.



Offline MisserBill

  • Member
  • **
  • Posts: 2
    • 2015 RAM 3500
Reply #2 on: June 04, 2019, 04:24:52 PM
There is some difference of opinion, and you are correct it's a DIY learning curve  :)

2015 RAM 3500 - I bought an actuator from Diesel Performance, they said it would be an HE351, so I bought those connectors. Then when the connectors showed up they would not fit the actuator I had removed from the truck. Subsequent reading showed 351 has a wire loom, while the 300vg has a black connector So, at the moment I think it is a 300vg. Now I have a set of connectors/pins/seals for a 351 if anyone is looking  8)

I've picked up an android tablet and downloaded your app. Will try to hook it up tonight and try out the old actuator just to see what it does. I notice on the pinout there is a 12V main power and a 5V main power - do I need to supply both? I get that the actuator will draw substantial current, so I've got 16AWG from a 12V battery. I'll try it first with just 12V to see if the standalone fires up and connects to the app via bluetooth.



Offline hakcenter

  • developer
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 762
    • 1998 12v Ram
Reply #3 on: June 05, 2019, 04:00:20 PM
The 5v on the wiring harness is an output if you need to power 5v sensors. You'll need to supply the 12v and ground.

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.