Starting a new build

Started by Chewy1576, February 12, 2018, 07:34:30 PM

Chewy1576

Awesome, thank you! These are the exact components I have been looking at.

What setup are you guys running? I saw a few videos on YouTube, but not sure whose they are. I want to have everything assembled, wired, and functioning off of the truck before I start taking parts off of the engine. All of the components for the swap are off the shelf parts, except for the elbow from the exhaust outlet to the existing downpipe. That can't really be fabbed until the exhaust housing is on the manifold so I can get measurements.

Rx7man

My youtube username is Rx7man as well.. don't have any video of just the setup, only of it in action.  VGT turbo on the factory application has about a 45* elbow on it, if you have it it might make fabbing the downpipe a bit easier.. I didn't have it when I built mine so I used 4" mandrel bend and welded it together
'94 dually,  67/67 HE351VE, NV5600, ~600hp
'93 ECLB 47RH, new toy truck, H pump project, 1000hp goal, 300K miles
93 XCLB auto, bone stock, 350K miles
93 XCLB 5spd, bone stock, 100K miles

Chewy1576

Unfortunately, it didn't come with the elbow. I have already sourced a V-band flange for the turbine outlet, and the ID will fit a 3.5" pipe. I also already have a 3" aftermarket downpipe and 4" exhaust in the truck with the stock turbo, so it will be measuring and fabricating the 90 degree turn for the 3.5" pipe down from the new outlet flange, then adapting that to the existing 3" pipe V-band flange.

Rx7man

Something that might help you are the band clamp types of exhaust clamps.. Places like Kenworth have them and they aren't that much money.. At least for mockups, etc they can hold two butt ends together nicely..
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/walker-5231/exhaust-parts-16469/exhaust-clamps-17380/mega-band-clamp/33260/4786467

there are also stepped ones that go from the pipe size to the spiral flex like this
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/walker-5231/exhaust-parts-16469/exhaust-clamps-17380/walker-4-inch-steel-band-clamp/33969/4786501
'94 dually,  67/67 HE351VE, NV5600, ~600hp
'93 ECLB 47RH, new toy truck, H pump project, 1000hp goal, 300K miles
93 XCLB auto, bone stock, 350K miles
93 XCLB 5spd, bone stock, 100K miles

Chewy1576

I hope everything lines up straight and after a few quick measurements and fitments it will be done. Although I'm expecting to have to angle the new elbow toward the passenger side, then bend or angle cut it and weld the flange on parallel to where the downpipe is.

hakcenter

I bought an elbow, cut the flange, and welded it to my OG downpipe works great :)
TS2009 Deḇarim 8:2
"And you shall remember that יהוה your Elohim led you all the way these forty years in the wilderness, to humble you, prove you, to know what is in your heart, whether you guard His commands or not.

Rx7man

'94 dually,  67/67 HE351VE, NV5600, ~600hp
'93 ECLB 47RH, new toy truck, H pump project, 1000hp goal, 300K miles
93 XCLB auto, bone stock, 350K miles
93 XCLB 5spd, bone stock, 100K miles

Chewy1576

#37
Well that's a pretty cool little module! I'm not opposed to a little more cost for an all-in-one solution. I still need to either add and FTDI board for programming, or establish a UART connection with the Uno too. I wonder if I can incorporate an RJ45 plug on both ends and use a Cat5e cable for the interconnect? 8 wires, use 1 pair for 5V VCC and a ground to power the board, 2 wires (1 pair) for the UART, 2 wires (1 pair) for the CAN high and low. Will the same 5v be enough to power the LCD as well? Or should I pass another power and ground up for that? The I2C bus between the LCD and Mini will be internal to that device.

Rx7man

I think cat5 cable should handle a amp or so per pair with ease, don't see it drawing much more than that.. LCD's are usually about 200ma or so max IIRC... Might want to look into a somewhat custom power supply if one supply will power all devices.. I think the part number for a high current 3 pin voltage regulator is the LM1084T-5  which should be able to supply lots and lots of stuff with a good heat sink.
For programming I'd just get an FTDI chip. again, they're so darned cheap, you can solder it with ribbon cable right to your device.. some have 3.3 and 5v options, as well as RS485, RS232, etc all onboard
Here's one
https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=FT232RL+FTDI+Serials+Adapter+Module+Mini+Port+f.+Arduino+USB+to+TTL+3.3V+5.5V&_id=201543906640&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

another
FTDI FT232RL USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 5V 3.3V For Arduino WA | eBay

And if you're going to do soldering, I HIGHLY recommend a good iron.. I got this one, and for the price I'm pretty happy with it.. heats up fast, digital temp control, and readily available tips (900M style)
60W LCD Digital Soldering Iron Temperature Adjustable US/EU Plug & Iron Frame | eBay

Another nice thing is paste solder.. really makes life easier, dab a little onto the joint, heat and done.. a little hard to dispense, I haven't found a good way yet.. I use a wood dowel for a plunger
MECHANIC XG-Z40 10cc Syringe Solder Paste Flux Sn63/Pb37 25-45u | eBay
'94 dually,  67/67 HE351VE, NV5600, ~600hp
'93 ECLB 47RH, new toy truck, H pump project, 1000hp goal, 300K miles
93 XCLB auto, bone stock, 350K miles
93 XCLB 5spd, bone stock, 100K miles

Chewy1576

I figure that we use power over Ethernet to run our office phones, it should be able to handle at least that much. The RJ45 interface would just be an easy connection and cheap cable to route. I actually have an FTDI chip that I use to talk to the PCM in my 1990 Chevy truck so I can datalog and tune the 383 in it. I do need a much better soldering iron too. The cheap Welder ones would probably nuke anything they touch.

Rx7man

as with anything from China, buy it long before you need it.. shipping times can be horrid.. but when I looked for comparable soldering irons here, even made in China, I was looking at double the price to start.
'94 dually,  67/67 HE351VE, NV5600, ~600hp
'93 ECLB 47RH, new toy truck, H pump project, 1000hp goal, 300K miles
93 XCLB auto, bone stock, 350K miles
93 XCLB 5spd, bone stock, 100K miles

Chewy1576

I've learned my lesson with items from China long ago... I look at the item origin before I bid and make sure it's a seller from the US before bidding/buying anything. I don't care if the sale price is higher, I'd rather not deal with that "slow boat from China" than pay a few more dollars.

Rx7man

I'm a cheap bastard, if I don't need something in a hurry, I'll save the money

Shipping from the US to Canada alone is worth way more than what it's worth shipped from china.. nevermind the cost of the part
'94 dually,  67/67 HE351VE, NV5600, ~600hp
'93 ECLB 47RH, new toy truck, H pump project, 1000hp goal, 300K miles
93 XCLB auto, bone stock, 350K miles
93 XCLB 5spd, bone stock, 100K miles

Chewy1576

#43
I ordered the controller parts today, grabbed an Ard Uno, CAN shield, Thermocouple Amp, Voltage Regulator, Ard Pro Mini, and Mini CAN board from Amazon. I got a 20x4 LCD from Crystalfontz.com also. I'll get an EGT probe and boost pressure sensors later. It will be a good test for me just to get the controller talking to the actuator and the LCD.

Rx7man

The 20x4 LCD can be really slow to update.. slow enough the turbo times out if you do it all at once.. I'll try and find the library I use that's much faster than a lot of the others
'94 dually,  67/67 HE351VE, NV5600, ~600hp
'93 ECLB 47RH, new toy truck, H pump project, 1000hp goal, 300K miles
93 XCLB auto, bone stock, 350K miles
93 XCLB 5spd, bone stock, 100K miles