Author Topic: 1.1 sheild self test?  (Read 561 times)

Offline Chummins

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on: October 01, 2018, 05:13:34 AM
Is there a way to do a self test with the 1.1 sheild without having a actuator hooked up?  Through IDE program. Pin out tests? I'm just trying make sure the repairs are good before installing.  Thanks.

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Offline hakcenter

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Reply #1 on: October 02, 2018, 09:57:33 AM
There's really no self tests cause what you really want to test, you need the actuator to verify the working end.

You can test pinouts, but all that is connected to the atmega not really the canbus side of things.

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.



Offline Chummins

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Reply #2 on: October 28, 2018, 07:31:11 AM
Okay I have repaired my shield  and everything hooked up properly now. Powered everything up and I still have no action to the actuator. I have tried to use  the calibrate  command  and there is nothing happening  but I am not sure  if I'm doing it correctly . Is there a way to see any communication with the ardunio IDE program? Or Is there a separate software that I can use to do various commands to see if the shield is working?

00 GMC CCSB classic 12valve P-pump/nv4500
04 legacy i with Full JDM Bp5/ej20y swap
88 Silverado RCLB W/corvette 350 TPI/700r4
Nothing stays stock here! 🏁😆🏁


Offline hakcenter

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Reply #3 on: October 29, 2018, 01:36:09 PM
Through the Arduino IDE, while you're hooked up to the arduino via USB you can click the top right icon that looks like a magnifying glass, but it's the serial monitor.

Make sure the output is setup
Both NL and CR | 115200 Baud

If you get to :
Code: [Select]
System Ready..
Waiting for turbo to come online..
But the turbo never comes online, there's a canbus problem, either connected backwards, actuator not powered up, etc

Otherwise if the turbo does come online, you can type output, to get it to spam the screen with a bunch of goodies, and you can test the pin modes by grounding the appropriate brake/perf mode pins and the output should change, to show you the modes indeed changed.

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.



Offline Chummins

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Reply #4 on: October 29, 2018, 05:21:15 PM
Sweet words i can read !!! i didn't know about the 11500 rate...  all i was getting was a bunch of symbols and stuff .  I gonna go see what happens now . to curious to let if off for tonight.... I've tried to switch the can signals but not effect.   To you have a wiring schematic for the shield so a can verify my repair ? maybe my repair isn't as good as i think....   :-\

00 GMC CCSB classic 12valve P-pump/nv4500
04 legacy i with Full JDM Bp5/ej20y swap
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Nothing stays stock here! 🏁😆🏁


Offline hakcenter

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Reply #5 on: October 30, 2018, 12:19:35 AM
Turbo not coming online ?

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.



Offline Chummins

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Reply #6 on: October 30, 2018, 06:28:57 AM
No it's not. :(  I have same voltage( 2.5v )out of the the can pins on controller.  And 2.56v and 2.40v on actuator.  I also notice the actuator doesn't have any resistance. ... shouldn't it have 60 ohms like the controller?  It does power up I can hear it "clicking" or doing something every time I cycle power.  But I do not have a spare actuator.  I dont like where this is going.....  any other suggestions?

00 GMC CCSB classic 12valve P-pump/nv4500
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Offline hakcenter

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Reply #7 on: October 30, 2018, 08:21:08 AM
Hmm, isthe VR is it still heating up ??

Also what components did you replace on the board ? I'm not getting any measurements from R6 to GND or R6 to R3 respectively. If you still are something is still damaged.

Also is your actuator a 300VG or a regular 351VE ? 300VG's have the connection molded onto the housing, where the 351 is usually 4 wires out of the housing and a gray locking connector.

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.



Offline Chummins

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Reply #8 on: October 30, 2018, 08:39:21 AM
VR not getting hot anymore no. I changed both MCP IC's . U1 and U2 Only . I just re-measured with my Fluke 115 rms meter. and yeah i'm still getting 8meg ohms  from GND to R6 and 3.3 meg from R6 to R3. ... so yeah your assumption is right .  ;) 

It's a 351ve  actuator . I did have the matting connectors in my "big bin" of connectors . its wire according to your wiki pin out.

00 GMC CCSB classic 12valve P-pump/nv4500
04 legacy i with Full JDM Bp5/ej20y swap
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Offline hakcenter

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Reply #9 on: October 30, 2018, 08:46:12 AM
7.54meg ohm from R6 to R3
8.26meg to the GND side of R3

still zero either Can L / H to GND, are you disconnected from the actuator while testing all this ? You might want to start to rule out some stuff, maybe disconnecting the shield from the Arduino if you haven't. etc

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.



Offline Chummins

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Reply #10 on: October 30, 2018, 09:51:32 AM
yeah I unplugged  shield from arduino . I tried measuring with a different non RMS meter just to see . Not sure what meter your using , but there is a difference ... i'm little confused  now. with a regular meter i'm getting 15meg bettween r6 (com lead)  and either side of R3 (Red lead).
Testing Gnd(com lead) to to the can lines with Regular meter i get 30meg

With the fluke RMS, doing same test R6 to R3,  i get 18k and 6.4k  On R3 . (big difference)
I 'm also getting 8meg Gnd (com) to either can bus lines   

Also reversing leads gives me totally diff. readings. 

00 GMC CCSB classic 12valve P-pump/nv4500
04 legacy i with Full JDM Bp5/ej20y swap
88 Silverado RCLB W/corvette 350 TPI/700r4
Nothing stays stock here! 🏁😆🏁


Offline hakcenter

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Reply #11 on: October 30, 2018, 10:07:58 AM
Ya sorry I don't own a Fluke :(, just a basic meter who know's just how accurate it is.

Maybe the crystal got damaged as well ? I measure 1.8vdc and 1.5vdc on the inside of the caps leading to the crystal. Don't really know a decent way to test the crystal but it needs to be 16mhz.

What's the story on the turbo itself ? Working from a friend ? eBay ? Craigslist ?

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.



Offline Chummins

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Reply #12 on: October 30, 2018, 10:25:05 AM
Ok I'll ditch the fluke and keep using my other meter it's just your regular amp clamp with a auto ranging meter built in. I also tried my 9.99 Canadian tire meter .it also had similar readings as my amp clamp.  Except it reads open when  I test my can bus lines to GND.  (I'm assuming it can read over 20meg while my amp clamp does). 

I did get a new crystal and caps but didn't change them.. caps measured fine last time I tested them.   Did you test with just USB power?

As for the turbo , it was bought from a friend that upgraded to non vgt. I was told it worked fine and was tested before it was removed. But I have not seen it work in person.

00 GMC CCSB classic 12valve P-pump/nv4500
04 legacy i with Full JDM Bp5/ej20y swap
88 Silverado RCLB W/corvette 350 TPI/700r4
Nothing stays stock here! 🏁😆🏁


Offline Chummins

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Reply #13 on: October 30, 2018, 10:34:37 AM
4.8v dc on C7 and 0.68v dc on C6 ..... Crystal ?   I measured  on the pin facing each other (inside pin) to GND.

00 GMC CCSB classic 12valve P-pump/nv4500
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88 Silverado RCLB W/corvette 350 TPI/700r4
Nothing stays stock here! 🏁😆🏁


Offline hakcenter

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Reply #14 on: October 30, 2018, 10:42:28 AM
I've been testing with USB power ya...

AMP 2 Corinthians 8:21
For we take thought beforehand and aim to be honest and absolutely above suspicion, not only in the sight of the Lord but also in the sight of men.