I think I'm going to re-engineer the LBB

[Rx7man]

yes...

The basic code is

Code: [Select]

volatile unsigned byte RPMcounter;
unsigned int RPM;

setup(){
attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(2), RpmISR());
}
void RpmISR(){
RPMcounter++;
}
void Timer2routine(){
//fires every 20-50ms and recalculates the position
  calculateRPM();
}
void calculateRPM(){
//do the work here to calculate the RPM.. take the timer interval, figure out how many revs have happened since the last one
}


[Rx7man]

I'm posting my current code in my life, my coding thread for the nitty gritty stuff.. there'll be a lot of things unfamiliar to you, I definitely go about my controls differently than you do.. I have a TPS which makes a big difference.

[hakcenter]

You miss understand what I'm asking. I'm engineering the board... So I need to know if I should connect the spare pin to one of the int pins etc..

Looks like that is a yes.

[Rx7man]

Yes .  For my purposes, I re-routed pin 8 (freqmeasure pin) to pin 2 and removed that pullup resistor.  No changes are needed there, it's pretty simple to do with a jumper wire.

If you have any other spare pins, I'd suggest hooking a PWM capable output to a MOSFET as a sinking output so you can control at least one solenoid or such what this guy made MOSFET Breakout Board Module Switch Relay 15A 60V 4 Outputs for Arduino RPI | eBay

[hakcenter]

More than what's on the board will have to be for later. I can't add more pins to the header without moving it for more room, then it won't be on the same side with the USB which I'm not okay with lol.

A big black box, definitely but I'm not there yet

But definitely moved the spare pin to D2 (int 0)

[Rx7man]

I was wondering also what you're using the 4th analog input for on the header... I haven't made any decisions or deep philosophical thought on it yet, but I was thinking of putting a 20V->5V analog stepdown in there somewhere.. perhaps on a micro-pot to sense battery or other voltages.
I'm just kinda thinking out loud

[hakcenter]

Finally finished up today, got my project done on Mouser, price isn't bad at all. Hoping to send some BOMs around and see who can manufacture this for a decent price that won't bankrupt me.

[Rx7man]

Cool!  I think I'll be good with the one I have for a while though

[hakcenter]

Lol, it needs to be in a box. I'm sure once it's a complete product it'll gain more interest. I need to find a wire manufacturer to make the main header connection... *rolls eyes* that's been the bane of my existence.

[me78569]

all I can say is, don't us PKC out of San jose,  they have been a nightmare to deal with on another project of mine.

[hakcenter]

I just had a thought... I should probably make canH and canL reversable on the board...

[Rx7man]

The Megasquirt I used had a 25 pin D sub connector.. For most things (signals, not high power) that would be plenty, and then you could just have a 2 row header with a ribbon cable to connect to it..  would make mounting in the box a little simpler, and be easy to disconnect if you needed to.

[Rx7man]

Repurpose an old printer cable

[hakcenter]

Dsub is waaay too big for what I needed. I could drop down to a VGA-15 but then again not in the wire gauges I would want this thing in.

I have hope I'll find someone, there's got to be a company, you know like those guys that do radios... etc
The parrot bluetooth I got, used a very similar header, with custom colors and tags on the wires.. just need to know who made that! haha

Added a switch, +50cents, but worth just opening the box, and switching CANH and CANL than maybe getting screwed putting the wires wrong on the other end.

[Rx7man]

If you have a switch, it means you have a 50% chance of getting it right... Murphys law say's you'll NEVER get it right the first time though
What gauge wire are you thinking of?

How about no header, just wires with a weathertight or other connector?  Just giving ideas.  I know Mouser has some VERY expensive connectors!