Recent Posts

General Discussion / New build/no luck
« Last post by Kookie on August 06, 2018, 12:00:38 PM »
93 w250 reg cab, rebuilt 215 p-pump 24v h/o piston cummins engine with 370 marine camshaft, 7x11 injectors, 110  valve springs, bunch of pump goodies and 22* timing and 0.84 mild steel lines( had a set of stainless lines that were complete poop and would not seal up and dealing with warrenty, would not recommend poor quality)  backed up with a duel disk clutch and nv5600. Installed the HE351ve and the standalone 2.0 controller and went to play with it to find out the turbo has a bad actuator:( pulling turbo off and going back to old set up until I can buy a new actuator and also need to have machine work done for larger 67mm compressor wheel and 70mm turbin wheel that I have. Was looking to run truck on dyno next weekend but I guess no luck. Anyways if anyone is interested in my build I’m on YouTube lemmonAid cheap customs...shameless plug
General Discussion / Re: Actuator calibration
« Last post by Kookie on August 06, 2018, 11:49:05 AM »
How do you calibrate if you don’t have the app(need to buy android device) and want to use lap top, what software do I need to install to plug into the controller
Installation / Re: Back again installation 101 .
« Last post by Chummins on July 25, 2018, 04:49:25 PM »
As always great info.  Thanks Hak.
Installation / Re: Back again installation 101 .
« Last post by hakcenter on July 25, 2018, 04:07:00 PM »
8 / 16 is the main powering. You can power the arduino directly with it. I would suggest a key on source, like the radio.. or something similar. You don't want it powered on all the time, it is roughly a 114mA draw.

The actuator  itself will pull 10+A. I would relay it off the battery, with a fused 15A connection to the battery. You can vamp the lbb +12v line to power the relay if you need a switched power and all you have is inside the cab. The Shield cannot power the actuator.

The 4 modes, perf/cruise/brake/spare are all 10k pullups, so you just need a switch switched to ground to activate them. They can be exposed, it's entirely safe. Just may not be good if you get false triggers :)

The 5V line, is 1A fused directly on your Arduino itself. You can certainly power any sensors with it. The 3 adcs can be used to monitor their outputs as well. Definitely want to connect the ground back to #7 on the shield.

Installation / Back again installation 101 .
« Last post by Chummins on July 25, 2018, 03:42:34 PM »
More Newbie easy questions.
So I finally got my Chummins Restoration underway , new 12v P-pump ,HE351ve installed. I didn't wire  it all up yet.  Question on wiring . I purchased the 1.1 shield just under a YEAR ago! just itching to get this thing going...   
1-Do I need to power up the  Ardunio separately or will it power up through the LBB header? Pin 8 and 16
2-Also what kind of amperage will that actuator Pull ??I'm assuming i'm not connecting the 12+ and Ground from the Actuator to the header correct me if i'm wrong please.
3- what does it want for the 4  inputs ? ( again I'm assuming Ground but not sure)
4- Lastly I need a 5v source to power up some wire Sensors (3 of them) . Can I use the 5V out and GND from the Sheild (fused of course) without affecting performance?

Thanks Again for the help I'm sure I'll have more questions later. I'd really like to have a Screen later on just to show the speed and what input is being applied ... just for show and tell.

Here is a few pics of progress..
Shield or the Standalone.

They both have a 1watt 60ohm resistor across the High and Low. But that's it.

The standalone, it's R14, the SMD component bridging the 2 traces connected to 1 / 9 on the pinout.
The shield, it's R6, the gigantic resistor next to the pinouts.

I found it necessary to make canbus communication work.

If you're looking to setup some canbus communication, you need to brush up on the can library.

Code: [Select]
void read_can_data(unsigned long id, byte length) {
  if (CAN1.msgAvailable() == true) {, &length, can_data);
    // 419,415,298 = 0x18FFC502 is turbo output
    // 419,367,426 = 0x18FF0A02 is no idea
    can_id = id;
    if (can_id == 419415298) {
      can_timeout = 0;
      memcpy(turbo_flags, can_data, 8);
      turbo_position = (turbo_flags[2] << 8) + turbo_flags[1];
      turbo_temp = turbo_flags[3];
      turbo_cmd_position = (turbo_flags[6] << 8) + turbo_flags[5];
      turbo_feedback = (turbo_flags[7] / 127.0) * 100;
    } else {
  } else {

It listens to the entire canbus network it is connected to. Technically you could connect it to your vehicles bus and spy on stuff.

I'm using the shield, and I see the big 60 ohm guy on there.  Thanks for that, and for the code.  I think it makes sense so I'll play with it.

The DSL1 controller that I linked has a PID boost control system that can use a PWM output for a solenoid or whatever, but I might just have the LBB read that signal and set the vane position proportionally.  It's kinda hokey but if the command frequency on the LBB is set much higher than the boost control loop, I think it'll work fine. 
General Discussion / Re: Starting a new build
« Last post by Rx7man on July 06, 2018, 08:49:39 AM »
Dang that's where my 7/16 wrench went!

But seriously.. everything is metric, lol WTF
If it was his 10mm he'd have looked for it and save himself a turbo maybe :P
General Discussion / Re: Starting a new build
« Last post by Chewy1576 on July 06, 2018, 07:49:25 AM »
No doubt something went through it! He just said the VGT quit working, so he put a different turbo on. Oh well, I guess I have some spare parts in case something happens to the new one.
General Discussion / Re: Starting a new build
« Last post by hakcenter on July 06, 2018, 06:48:21 AM »
Dang that's where my 7/16 wrench went!

But seriously.. everything is metric, lol WTF
General Discussion / Re: Starting a new build
« Last post by Rx7man on July 06, 2018, 01:15:35 AM »
Looks like a piece of foreign material went through there.. Piece of valve, piston, wrench, or something.... Don't laugh, it happens!