Hey everyone, new to forum and I'm glad I found it. I have a 90 300ZX with an Infiniti VH45DE V8 in it. I am going rear mount because i don't have any room up front. Running probably a max of 8 lbs on tuned ECU, stock injectors and MAF. I am contemplating using an MS-3 PRO but funds will dictate that. :(
So I got my turbo this week from Ebay and the seller stated that the vanes were sticking. Can I just pull off the turbine housing and try to clean them up a bit? Not sure how this thing is built. I would like to put in a rebuild kit but I can't find any good instructions to do so for this turbo. I also need to figure out what fittings/adapters I need for it, oil/water/flanges, etc.
I am interested in the CAN shield as well and learning how to fiddle with it. How do I order one?
This is my first turbo build and I'm sure I'll screw something up, but that's the fun right? Thanks.
Benjamin
You can take the compressor and the exhaust housing off without any issues. They are basically v-banded on. Single 11mm band takes them off. The exhaust side you may need to mallet the crap off it until it finally starts to pry loose.
Cleaning shouldn't be an issue, it is a pretty simple design. If you have to get to the innards of the turbo it isn't much different than your typical Holset turbos, just the gear rod comes out and holds a few things in place.
From what I've heard usually when it is dirty, its the piston side walls that are really caked up, versus just the vanes.. cause the vanes are pretty dang large lol.
Thanks, I'll crack it open and see what it looks like. If I decide to take off the actuator, rod and remove the vanes, it will be re-calibrated with the LilBB right? I'm pretty sure I read that's how it works.
its very easy to recalibrate. just put the vanes mechanically into the smallest position, put the gearbox back on, change 1 value and hit it with it.
Smallest position being? LOL, in or out? I assume smallest position is the vanes being retracted all the way into the center housing.
So I got it apart and there's oil everywhere, intake housing, turbine housing, etc. So I must rebuild. I found one video and I'm fairly certain I can do it.
Anyways, might be a while before my next update...
LOL right? With the piston being at the shortest stroke, ie, majiggers barely sticking through the holes.
What did it come off of ? And did it have a CCV system that used the turbo to suck the blowby ? If so that could just be residual from the motor not the actual turbo. There is a youtube video that shows the guy rebuilding it over a couple days, he has the part numbers in the video.
Majiggers has been added to my current vocabulary.
I believe it's off a 2007 Ram, seller said it had around 210k miles. The compressor housing is caked with sticky black oil, like tar. And there is a decent amount of oil in the turbine on the round housing just behind the wheel. The vanes aren't sticking as bad as I thought, but they are fairly stiff, not smooth by any stretch.
I found a couple places on the compressor wheel that look to have been ground down in a semi-circle on the edge of the wheel. I assume it's from balancing? They look intentional.
Those are balancing marks :)
I always called them thingamajigs.. doohickeys are the ones found on the Ford VGTs :P
At this point, I'd see if I can just clean the carbon and crap out of the vane actuator, get it operating smoothly, and run it... if its blowing a lot of smoke, then rebuild it. On mine, the turbine side was really oily, I figure they had left it laying on that side, and since it's not a perfect seal with rubber O rings (they're more like piston rings), given enough time they will leak oil out
That sounds like a plan to me. Since mine will be rear mount it will be very easy to pull it out and service if need be. Other than the oil, it appears to be pretty solid. The turbine looks very clean considering it was on a diesel, no major carbon buildup.
What is typical oil pressure for this turbo? My engine can push 60-80 and I don't want to blow a seal, 40ish is good? I have to install a regulator obviously.
Cummins runs them straight up as far as I know. 10psi to 60~ with a built in regulator on the oil for the motor.
If it presses oil through restrict it.
How do you plan to return the oil with your remote setup?
At the company I used to work for several years ago we did a few VERY low mounted Twins on LS1 Camaro's & Firebirds. The turbo's oil drains were below the bottom of the pan and located behind the engine. We had to use electric scavenge pumps to pull the foamy oil up and back to the pan.
I think a good oil drain and crankcase venting is more critical to the turbo oil seals than oil supply pressure.
I plan on a TurboWerx scavenge pump. Apparently they are one of the best and quietest. My turbo is going in the backseat/cargo area with a straight exhaust dump between the tail lights. :o With a heat shroud of course. I don't have enough room up front or underneath. I am actually going to run the charge pipe through the passenger foot well up through the firewall. lol
I'm not so sure my seals are good. I put some oil in the housing just by plugging up the drain with my finger an spun it around a few times. Feels really solid. But after laying it on it's side for a couple minutes the oil was running out of the turbine side. Dripping actually. Is this normal? Does oil pressure have any part in sealing the "seals"? I'm just not sure, first turbo project. :-\
Oil pressure has no part in sealing, and as long as the oil drain is good, oil pressure (within reason) shouldn't cause any problems as long as it has some place to go. Is it going to be really hard to get to the turbo to service it? if it's not too hard to get to, I'd run it the way it is and see what happens. The oil seals are mostly like a piston ring design, so they never seal completely. My turbine housing was covered in oil too.. I'm going to install it and see what happens. Another thing is that when the turbine shaft rotates, it slings the oil off it so there shouldn't be too much work for the seal to do.
Hmm.. I just noticed I kinda repeated myself there :P
Yeah it won't be hard at all to service so I guess we'll see. I envision it taking me about 15 minutes to remove.
Shaft speed has to be up, to help seal or it'll blow oil too.
(https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/images/air/turbo/~turbo_section.jpg)
Quote
Seals are located at both ends of the bearing housing. These seals represent a difficult design problem due to the need to keep frictional losses low, the relatively large movements of the shaft due to bearing clearance and adverse pressure gradients under some conditions.
These seals primarily serve to keep intake air and exhaust gas out of the center housing. The pressures in the intake and exhaust systems are normally higher than in the turbocharger's center housing which is typically at the pressure of the engine crankcase. As such, they would primarily be designed to seal the center housing when the pressure in the center housing is lower than in the intake and exhaust systems. These seals are not intended to be the primary means of preventing oil from escaping from the center housing into the exhaust and air systems. Oil is usually prevented from contacting these seals by other means such as oil deflectors and rotating flingers.
Turbocharger seals are different from the soft lip seals normally found in rotating equipment operating at much lower speeds and temperatures. The piston ring type seal is one type that is often used. It consists of a metal ring, similar in appearance to a piston ring. The seal remains stationary when the shaft rotates. Labyrinth-type seals are another type sometimes used. Generally turbocharger shaft seals will not prevent oil leakage if the pressure differential reverses such that the pressure in the center housing is higher than in the intake or exhaust systems.
Good picture (always love cutaways) and description of the function of the seals
That is some high quality content. The owner of this forum should buy you a beer. :)
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