first I had seen this. Might have to hit get one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKzCaEjvJeM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKzCaEjvJeM)
i ordered 1 off eBay wife's going to kill me.lol
I have a strong suspicion that the "Kit" that guy is selling on ebay is just either just a pot, or its a PWM output variable through a pot. Something you should be able to do way better (like add vehicle speed input) with a cheap uC like an arduino (even a $5.00 arduino mini or nano clone).
Those particular steering units come on a couple years of Saturn's. Be aware that there are two or three different units that came on the same cars, but only one has the good control box that you can use.
Mazda Rx8's had electric power steering as well.. don't know how they worked though
the control was only 60 so I ordered it to play with comes with pot for control.
I looked under my dash and watched a mustang plus video for there $1500 eps looks almost identical. down to the $60 ebay control.
After more research the toyota prius and rav4 ar can bus controlled.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/79652-Electric-power-steering (http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/79652-Electric-power-steering)
Quotechange the setting to 500kps to match the network speed of the can system. Then back to the tab "can transmit". Now has i said earlier the hex for rpm is 2C4. The data length is 11 bit. The dlc is 8. The information i used was ramdomly picked after much trial and error. Almost 3 pages of codes I tried. I could set a rpm in connect my scan tool and see the rpm but still now assist. After much frustration i finally realised that it was a setting i had wrong. It was how often i had it repetting the message. The end result looked something like this 2C4 8 06 8A 00 19 00 00 92 09 Repet rate 20 ms(milliseconds) . All this done and turned the car on and immediate assist. I still have not been able to drive the car and see if it feels bettter. Still working on some idle issues with the engine. I could however tell the assist was greater. Last thing to work on is connecting the can wiring to the dlc so i can see about changing the setting for the assist level at idle.
so 500kbs can bus good for megasquirt bad for lil blackbox
I've been toying with the idea of removing pretty much all the calculation code from the LilBB and just having it transfer the raw inputs to the R-pi, having it do all the grunt work and math, and then sending back the new positiong... Of course this will rely on good communication between the two units, and perhaps require some backup on the arduino so you don't lose all turbo function in case of a bad connection.
wasn't knocking lil black just can't do both can bus speeds at same time.
Ahh but you were probably thinking 2 lilb with one pie.
I'll probably sand my welds down and paint the actuator to hide them.
I work with a very cocky welder and don't want to hear about them. ::)
I don't think it's possible to have multiple bus's.
If you stacked units, you might get away with 1 on 1 channel, another on another channel, by stacking shields... and moving the CS pin for the second shield to another pin say.. pin 9, and CAN2(9) in your arduino code.
I imagine that would work. Waste to do my shield twice though, use a seeed canbus shield.
Get a processor that has 2x Can interfaces on it already and design the whole board :P
Corsa epas http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/corsa-c-epas-speed-controller/ (http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/corsa-c-epas-speed-controller/)
QuoteCorsa C EPAS wiring
The column has has two connectors that need inputs:
A power connector with 2 thick wires
Red – 6mm2 +12v ignition permanent positive (50amp fuse needed)
Brown – 6mm2 Earth
A signal connector with 5 thin wires
Blue / Red trace – 0.5mm2 Speed Sensor (ABS) Input
Red / White trace -0.5mm2 Engine Multi-Timer Input
Black – 0.5mm2 +12v Ignition switched positive
(5 amp fuse)
Green – 0.5mm2 Engine rpm Input minimum 55Hz maximum 30KHz
Brown / White trace – 0.5mm2 Diagnostic output
When you apply just power alone to the Corsa EPAS column; via the 2 thick Red and Brown wires; it does absolutely nothing as it is expecting rpm and speed inputs.
The first thing I found, was that you have to apply a square wave signal to the thin green wire. This signal needs to be minimum 0 – 5V peak to peak and an absolute minimum of 55Hz (read on). Without it the column does nothing.
I had one of the those cheap control boxes you buy off fleebay for testing purposes. They're simply a little square wave oscillator with the frequency adjusted by a small dial or potentiometer (probably built around a 555 timer). These very simplistic units apply identical square waves to the green and blue wires. It doesn't make any sense to me to put identical frequency signals onto the RPM and Speed inputs, surely that's going to mess with the Corsa's EPAS assistance maps.
That guy has quite a project going
The worst car I ever drove was a Saturn Ion.. this was a brand spanking new car, about 2007 at the time, 3000 miles on it.. you COULDN'T take your eyes off the road for an instant or the car was darting off into the ditch or oncoming traffic, it was seriously scary... My favorite no-frills car was the Pontiac G6.
now you tell me lol
you never asked before :P
I have no idea of the Ion had EPAS.. perhaps the alignment was funky, bad engineering, who knows.
all the mustang guys are happy with the swap even a few that take there's to the track.
If I was to do it again I would do a toyota epas can bus ;)
Naturally I'd look into what the Rx8 had :).. I know they had a tight, responsive steering.. I'm not sure if theirs was powered by a motor or by a big electromagnet.. I seem to remember something about that but can't be sure.. Been too long now
eps in rack on rx8 dc motor and can bus control
Sounds good to me :)
got the chevy equinox saturn vue eps today. control has 3 wires 2 purple 1 red
I don't think it's Can Bus.
sweet power steering
just need to finish the rest of the projects so I can go for a drive
Good job.. hope it performs as intended