I am looking at buying the plug and play lbb since my fleece controller took and crap and they do not support it anymore. What all will i need to make the lbb work on my 01 cummins? What code will i need to run, and what sensors will i need to purchase?
Man fleece doesn't support their controller anymore ? AFAIK they use the same box that Steed is using on his banshee.. milspec and all.
To run the lbb, you don't really need any sensors except the vr sensor that's already on the turbo. If you were using a fleece I imagine they use a 5v boost sensor ?
No they dont.. glad i wasted the 600 bucks. They said too many people were blowing up their phones with tuning questions so they discontinued the box and all support for it. The only thing the fleece hooked into was the actuator itself, power and ground, and the canbus connector on the drivers side of the engine. The lbb seems to need more than that. I have all the plugs to build a harness for the actuator and the vr. What else will i need beyond that?
Need an arduino uno, and the LBB comes a 16pin header, but you'll be required to solder / pin it yourself.
v1_1 [Lil' Blackbox] (http://wiki.lilbb.com/v1_1#pin_out)
Pin 1 and 9 are labeled on the board, http://wiki.lilbb.com/_media/v1.1:th:layout.png
So the pinout is looking at the header on the board, ignore the numbing on the actual 16p connector piece.. for whatever reason it has numbers on it lol.
From what i can tell the lbb uses the same 16 pin white connector that my fleece used. I will just have to repin it.. so the lbb reads the can signals from the vehicle and doesnt need and other sensors? Sorry for blowing you up with questions, just want to make sure i get everything i need.
lilbb doesn't talk to the truck, so it doesn't take into account TPS, boost, exhaust.
It controls the vanes on the turbo by watching the shaft speed of the turbo, it does work well.
Ahh ok. I was reading somewhere that someone had one setup running off rpm based i just wasnt sure if this was it
Just speaking for myself, I'm glad I spent the couple extra bucks and went with the Arduino Mega to have lots of extra memory and pins to play with. I tapped into the tach signal wire (gray/light blue off the ECM I think on a '94) (which is a 5V square wave) and it works pretty good... on an '01 that has OBD2 you might be able to get RPM that way, but I have no experience with it
You will also need to make/buy an appropriate enclosure.. I had an old AC inverter that was dead, it made a great box, I mounted it on the passenger side kick panel and put a hole in the firewall close to the ECM with a hole saw.. I don't recommend a hole bigger than 1 1/8th if you want to find a fitting grommet for it.. I have a 2" hole and can't find one anywhere.. Grr
Any help you need we're glad to help
As for sensors, I think your truck already has a TPS (non essential, but it helps), it would be a matter of finding what wire it is and plumbing it in, and a pressure transducer for intake manifold pressure that goes from 0 to at least 50 PSI...
I am doing a lot of experimenting, and as such, I have more sensors than really necessary
Exhaust manifold pressure
Front brake pressure (going to be used for a trailer brake controller)
Compressor inlet pressure (Chevy MAP sensor before the turbo)
Barometric pressure
TPS
and some potentiometers in the cab I code to do whatever I want... manual override? spooling curve?, boost limit?
Jake switch on the shifter, for evident reasons
T handle shifter thumb switch, for holding trailer brakes on a hill, also prevents front brakes from releasing.
Agree'd
Having tps, rpm is helpfull, but not needed.
I am just looking for the simplest way to make it work again so i can get this truck sold lol.
in that case you could just toss the stock turbo back on :)... It's up to you to weigh how much either will cost versus how much it 'ooh' value your truck increases by. A lil'bb in base form will get the truck back up and running though, probably cost about $200 give or take, and some time
if your only goal is to sell the truck then just put a hx35 back on and sell the 351 on the side.
Yeah normally that would be the way i would do but since the 351 and 6.7 mani is already on it, my down pipe has already been modded and my ic tubing as well it is cheaper and easier just to make the thing work again. Also the 35 and stock mani hot sold so it no longer an option
I've got a 60mm HX35 and manifold. *rolleyes*.. don't know where you live, but shipping would probably be waaay too expensive
Im gonna go ahead and buy the lilbb tomorrow. I have spent the better part of the day researching it and it seems that the shaft speed setup works awesome. Im selling this truck because im tired of the 5spd. I plan on buying another with an auto and if this works good i will buy another setup for it. Is there any way a lcd display can be wired up to show vane position and shaft speed?
look at my thread for lcd.
Lol you guys are all hilarious. What does he want to do, spend money to make money ? Pretty sure a LBB is cheaper than a new hx35 / manifold. And I would imagine the he351ve makes his truck more valuable.
Might actually keep it after the turbo runs like it should *wink*
Contact me before you buy, so I understand what you want. The LBB is just a add-on board to an Arduino Uno, so if you want it in a box.. etc etc etc, I need to know what ahead of time. I've built one for myself.. kind of costly IMHO but I haven't taken my stuff to 3d printing which I probably should do at some point.
Box I used, here (http://community.lilbb.com/hardware/box-solution/msg470/#msg470)
I was gonna get your lilbb ordered yesterday and got busy with some more broke down dump trucks lol. I have watched several vids of this thing now and i love it. I never was really happy with the way the fleece worked. The map was based off of engine rpm and fueling % that it read of the can connector on my 24v. I have a billet 67mm 351 with a bigger turbine also. I hope this works like i think it will so i can use this setup when i buy an auto truck. I was looking at some touch screen lcd displays on the same place i ordered my arduino from. I am not near smart enough to do the coding for it but i would sure pay someone to spend the time to make that touch screen control this box.
I was told by BD diesel they don't do wheel upgrades on these units.. they said they blow up. For now I'm good as it stands, but in the future I may look at a 67mm.
I don't have any experience with the displays either... I know some people here have the 2 line text displays, and I don't think they take too much coding expertise, but I think the Arduino may have it's hands full with the touchscreen versions. I think you could make a separate controller that handles the display, and let the Arduino do it's thing just controlling the VGT. I do agree it would totally be cool.. perhaps someday I'll get to it, but not in the near future I don't think
I have a 4 line screen. Code is all there if you wanted to put a screen on the lilbb.
I have that code lownloaded on my laptop lol. I just seen that touch screen and my mind went wild.
THoughton about touch too, but I couldn't really find a good reason to use one.
As for these turbos popping with bigger wheels... i ran a heavily modded 351cw with a 67x76 combo and ported ex housing.. i beat the crap out of it, barked it,it seen 60psi many times.. never did break it. The he and cw are the same thing as far as wheels and turbines go. I blew up countless hx 40s over the years and they also share the same internals. I think the 360 thrust that comes in the 351 series is what makes them hold up
Would you tell BD diesel that? They say they're 'researching' it now, and knowing the rate at they do that at I'll be old man by the time they figure it out.
Lol i never have had any dealings with them. The fleece cheeta vgts are all bigger wheeled and tons of people run them. Look up tater built turbos on facebook. He builds about and he351 combo you want and has very good prices. He is the one that built my 351cw
I'm not in a rush to upgrade this for now, though y'know how it goes!